BROWNSVILLE — When two older gentlemen decided to open an abandoned country store (formerly the J.B. Warren & Son Grocery) and turn it into a community restaurant in July of 2021, a few people were surprised.
After all, Turk Warren at age 98, and Ray Ellington, age 86 and a member of Woodland Baptist Church in Haywood County had never owned or managed a restaurant.
However, this didn’t stop these two entrepreneurs from establishing The Fork Restaurant. Warren is a Methodist whose late wife, Wayne, was a member of Woodland Baptist.
Located on the corner of Woodland Church Road and the Union-Mercer Road in Haywood County, about 10 miles east of Brownsville, the restaurant is not only thriving — it is doing exceptionally well. And instead of selling cheese and bologna sandwiches as first planned, The Fork Restaurant is now a full-fledged establishment open six days a week.
But there is more than the delicious food that brings people back to The Fork. It’s the gathering place in a rural community that was so very much missed and needed.
One thing that the owners, Warren and Ellington, hoped would happen has been fulfilled. The restaurant is bringing the churches in the community together.
With Woodland Baptist just down the road, many members enjoy Sunday lunch together. Union Grove United Methodist Church is nearby.
Zion Baptist is only a few miles. And the African-American congregation, Browns Creek Missionary Baptist Church, is off Woodland Church Road. Shaw’s Chapel, further away, brings people from across Haywood County.
Ellington shares a story of a couple from California who plans to move back home to Brownsville in a few months. Looking for a restaurant that offered good southern food, and not a fast-food burger place, someone recommended the old Warren country store.
The man who grew up in Haywood County, said, “Yes, I know where it’s located, but that store has been closed for years.”
“Imagine his surprise to find the country store open and turned into a thriving restaurant,” Ellington laughed. “When people come in, it’s also a time to share my faith and invite them to church.”
Large tables provide space for church friends to gather, laugh, talk and just get to know one another. And before they eat, someone asks the blessing for the gifts the Lord has bestowed upon them.
“The food is delicious, but communicating with our church friends and neighbors — well, we haven’t had this in our community for a long time — if ever,” one customer said.
Farmers in the community drift in about noon, enjoy a hearty meal and take box lunches back to those working in the fields.
One farmer was overheard saying, “The Fork Restaurant provides a place to relax, rest a bit and enjoy a healthy meal. If the restaurant wasn’t close by, we would eat a cold sandwich brought from home. It’s too far to drive into Brownsville for lunch. Besides, being in the fields we are dusty and tired. We’re grateful for this place nearby. God is good. He provides.”
Randy Kellough, pastor of Woodland Baptist, appreciates the way the community has responded to The Fork. “Many are the stories of days gone by of old country stores in the rural communities, how they served as the gathering spot.
“The Fork Restaurant is a renewal of the former ties. It is a place to eat,” he said.
“It fosters chances to sit and talk as families, and members from different churches frequent the tables. It is a gathering place for prayer on Saturday every other month, with a hope that the Lord will rekindle the old virtues of righteousness.”
“If a rural community like Woodland could open a country store that has been abandoned for years, and turn it into a place where churches could gather … this could happen in other places,” the pastor observed.
Perhaps it’s an answer to rebuilding rural churches where the pandemic has caused a decline in attendance.
Perhaps it’s an answer to having church members work together to take care of the needs of people, Kellough continued.
Kellough cited the wisdom found in Psalms 133:1, “Behold, how good and how pleasant it is for brothers to dwell together in unity!” B&R — The restaurant is open from 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 12-2 p.m. on Sunday. For information, call 731-803-8776 or 731-518-8255.